Browsing on the net, I found this site that has an excellent tutorial for a pencil skirt sloper. So, I am not going to re-write what Deby wrote so well. Click on this link to go to her site, So Sew Easy
A while back, when I posted how to draw your own pants pattern, someone asked for a skirt pattern tutorial. Specifically, we were talking about making what is called a sloper, which is the very base of patterning.
Browsing on the net, I found this site that has an excellent tutorial for a pencil skirt sloper. So, I am not going to re-write what Deby wrote so well. Click on this link to go to her site, So Sew Easy
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I'm not a quilter, and doubt I'll ever have the patience to piece together a pile of tiny fabric pieces. But, I like to see what talented quilters have made. Some people are just so creative!
In my browsing, I came across Seams To Be You And Me. Cindi has an awesome blog, and I found her entry about sewing 1/4" seams really good. Those small seams are not just for quilting, they can be used to sew anything small (baby clothes, dolls, I'm sure you can think of others). I'm not one to a bunch of specialty sewing gadgets. I'm a firm believer that if women could make works of fiber arts centuries ago, with only basic supplies, then I should have no problem making my modest creations with the basic, albeit modern, notions. Unless I'm sure that I will use something a lot, I'm not willing to buy it. No way I'm considering a 1/4" foot, heck, I use the same foot for everything except zippers. So, yes, learning how to do something without a special gizmo is right down my alley! Cindi uses a lined 3 x 5 card! Love it!!! Check it out here! Thank you to all who have join me in the draft along of the back bodice.
After some frustrating technological mess-ups (grumbles, grumbles), I got it to load here. That page has quite a few photos, so give it time to load. As always, comments here or on My Sewing Circle are welcome. Happy Easter! If you have been following the "draft along", we have just finished our back pattern. This is such a good feeling! you'll be able to make garments that fit you!
Next week, we'll start on the front part. Stay tuned! Next thing we need for the draft along are your measurements. I know, obvious, but I thought I'd go over which ones are needed.
One thing to note: when making a sloper, you want to take precise measurements, without any ease added. The following are needed: Bust: Taken at the largest point. Make sure the tape measure in straight across your back. Don't pull it tight, but it should be fairly snug. Also, calculate 1/4 of that measurement. Waist: Taken at the natural waist. I recommend tying a ribbon or string around your waist. Also, calculate 1/4 and 1/10th of that measurement. Back Length: This might require a helper. Taken from the base of your neck to your natural waist. Side length 1: From your waist to below the arm. The waist ribbon helps and it might help to tie another ribbon around your, right under the arms. Side length 2: From the ribbon below your arms to the shoulder. Do not curve the measuring tape, keep it in a straight vertical line. Shoulder: From the base of your neck to the point of the shoulder. If you have a significant difference between your left half and your right half (most people's shoulders are not exactly at the same height, but it's usually a slight difference), then you should take measurements on each side, label them as such, and make a separate sloper for each side. Remember, this is to fit you! Any questions specific to you, feel free to send me a private message or email. I think that's all. "See" you on Saturday! Have you ever been interested in learning how to draft your own garment patterns?
Are you frustrated by commercial patterns that just do not fit you? If you can trace a line on paper, you can easily learn how to make a basic pattern that fits you exactly. This basic pattern is called a sloper, at least in the USA. From it, you can there make modifications for different styles. I'm going to show you how easy it is. We'll start with a bodice sloper, which will be the base for blouses, tops, and the top part of dresses. If you're interested, please join me on Saturday, April 9th, 2011. Several members of My Sewing Circle are going to draft with me. It's free, by the way! Things to have on hand for the draft along: I must warn you, I am big on using what's available, not necessarily in investing in expensive, industry-specific supplies. Rulers: As long as it's straight, ideally 24" or 60cm long. A shorter ruler can be used, I have done it with a 12"/30 cm ruler, it just makes it a tad more difficult. Right Angle: If you don't have a square, L ruler, or T ruler, you can use some inexpensive school drafting squares. That's what I use, and it only requires a little more patience. Curved rulers: If you don't have a set of french curves (I don't), you can either hand draw like I do, or if that sounds scary, use a flexible ruler. Any flexible items that will retain the shape and spring back to a straight can be used. Incidentally, those are also used in woodworking, architecture, and drawing fields. Paper: Any paper can be used. Ideally, big enough to cover half your front. Something 24"/60cm wide will work for most people. Paper can also be taped to make it larger. I've made patterns using old newspapers (and gotten my hands all black in the days when they bled), plain printer paper, brown grocery bags... Fancy is not needed, unless you want to buy patterning paper. Paper preparation: If you use paper that doesn't stay flat too well, set it flat somewhere, stack some books on it. You can even iron it lightly if needed. Marking tools: Have a couple of pencils ready and sharp, finer point allows for more precise drafting but it harder to see (if your eyesight is bad like mine). I also like to have fine markers to retrace once I'm happy with the pattern. Finally, I like a large marker to label the pieces. Weights: Anything heavy will work as long as: The objects are small enough to fit on the pattern pieces without hindering your view and tracing. The objects are stable (nothing that will roll off). I also recommend nothing breakable, it's easy to accidentally elbow that candy dish right off the table. I have used canned good, rocks (my husband collects fossils - we have tons of rocks in various shapes), bricks, large upholstery scissors, candles. I also recommend a table or flat surface where you can spread out the paper and your tools. I'm sure you all have all these round the house. Don't forget to raid the kids' school supplies LOL! Please feel free to ask questions add insight, or make any comments. Stay tuned for my next post: Measurements you'll need. Don't worry, only you need to know what they are ;). I was not able to find any good crochet patterns for the kind of sandals I wanted to make. After lots of research on the net, I decided to make my own. I even remembered to write down what I did (for once). This is my first time attempting to write a pattern for others to use, and it is untested. Please let me know if you have questions. This pattern has very few ends to finish, and works up in a jiffy. These will fit a newborn. They worked up to a length of 3.25" or 8 cm. I've always found that the standard 3.5" or 9 cm are really too big for newborns, so I made those a touch smaller. You can use a larger hook and thicker yarn for larger feet. This is written in American crochet. Hook: Size G - 4.0mm Yarn: Small amount of lavender and small amount of white, rated for hook size G. Gauge: Not critical as the ties allow for some adjustments. Stitches used: Chain stitch. Slip stich. Single crochet (sc). Double crochet (dc). Shell stitch (2 double crochets, 1 chain, 2 double crochets in same stitch) Sorry about the bad picture. Sole: Chain 12. Row 1 - Double crochet in 3rd stitch and in next 7 stitches, for a total of 8 dcs. 6 dcs in last stitch. 7 dcs on other side of the chain. 3 dcs in last stitch. Join with a slip stitch. Row 2 - Chain 2. Do not turn. 2 dcs in next stitch. 1 dc in next 9 stitches. *2 dcs in next stitch* Repeat from * three times.. 1 dc in next 9 stitches. 3 dcs in next stitch. 2 dcs in next stitch. Join with a slip stitch. Sole is about 3.25" or 8cm long. Do not fasten off. Heel detail. Back heel: Chain 5. Join in 4th stitch across the width of the sole with a slip stitch. Chain 1. Make one shell stitch in the center of chain 5. sc in last stitch of chain 5. Heel completed. Do not fasten off. Slip stitch in next 6 stitches along the edge of the sole. Front top (toes part): Chain 12. Row 1 - Anchor across sole with slip stitch. You should anchor 6 stitches from the heel. Chain 2. 1 dc in each chain 12 stitches. Anchor to sole with a slip stitch. Chain 2. Turn. Row 2 - *dc in next stitch, chain 1, dc in next stitch* three times. Chain 2. dc in last stitch. Chain 3, turn. dc in center. Chain 3. sc in last stitch. Finish, leaving a tail for sewing. Sew toe part to sole. Either thread a ribbon or make a chain for laces. Finish ends. Make a second sandal. You can embellish or leave as is. Additional photos below. Pair it with a little matching dress.
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